Traxxas Slash 2WD – Choosing the Right Upgrades

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These are modifications I highly recommend to upgrade on your traxxas slash if you want a bullet proof it and prevent components from breaking. ***SEE MORE BELOW***

UPDATE (1/1/2015)
Additional upgrades since posting this video are as follows:
– RMP front and rear body mounds. These are much more ridged than the stock body mounts and also allows for height adjustment.
– Big Bore Shocks. As seen in the video, I did upgrade my Ultra shocks and still highly recommended doing so to the individually that does not want to drop $60+ on the Big Bores; however, I was getting a lot of leaking even after rebuilding. Since I have upgraded they work great!!! I have had no leaking what so ever after almost 8 months. If I were to do it again I would go with the GTR shocks that comes on vehicles like the Slash 4×4 Ultimate.
– RPM ESC mount. This is just a cleaner more secure method of mounting an ESC other than the Traxxas brand. I went with the double sided tape for some time, but where the ESC sits in the LCG chassis there are two strengthening ribs which hinder a nice planar surface to attach to. I highly recommend this for the money.
– Losi body pins. This is a mod that I was not even going to mention, but for what it is they work great and much better than the stock Traxxas body pins. They are a slightly larger gauge pin, so it holds things in place much better. I did purchase the Proline screw on style body mounds as well. They provide a much cleaner look, but when you lose them… which I did, they are more expensive to replace that a standard pin. As a result I am back to pins.
– Proline EVO SC Flo-tek body. All I can say is these bodies regardless of the style are more robust than the stock body due to a thicker gauge Lexan. These will last you much longer. Jconcepts also offers a nice line of bodies you may want to check out which in my opinion are in the same category as Proline.
– Traxxas aluminum wheel lock nuts (Anodized blue). This does not seem like that big of a deal, but once you lose a wheel on the track or bashing it will. These lock nuts are machines with sharp groves to help bight into the wheel hub. This will prevent that nut from ever backing out like the stock one can.

Watch my latest review of my New Slash 4×4 Ultimate.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mJprNHYvxNI&list=UU87wwTuKYRARcOBw8TjBqfw

Comments

I-Know-My-Username-Is-Really-Long-But-I-Dont-Care-Because-Your-Opinion-Isnt-Worth-Jizz says:

My upgrades:
STRC Aluminum C-Hubs
RPM Steering Knuckles
Proline ProTrac Shock Towers, A-Arms and turnbuckles
Proline adjustable Body Mounts and SecureLoc system
STRC Aluminum rear Hub Carriers
STRC Aluminum Bellcrank
Traxxas LCG Conversion kit
Castle Creations Sidewinder SCT combo
Traxxas Anodized Aluminum Wheel Nuts
Traxxas Adjustable Wheelie Bar
RPM Front Bumper
Traxxas Hardened Steel TiN Shock Shafts
Speedtreads Shootout tires

It’s a lot, but my truck is pretty close to indestructible and fully race
capable.

Eric Reitzel says:

Great video and god bless your wallet with two boys as racing
partners….lol I am now back in the hobby thanks to my 13 year old and
bought him a slash and Before it arrives Im already looking for
options…good run down of what breaks and general run down…Cant wait
till Tax Time Im going back into 1/8th Nitro Buggy….

Ryan R says:

Now only if they would make some parts for the telluride 4×4. I may switch
back to my slash 2wd just cause of the obundent parts available. 

majonesn says:

That transmission in aluminium is also adding some cooling to your motor.
Good for 3 or 4s driving..

Luke RCGuy says:

Check out this video on YouTube:

MysticRC says:

this is a good video and great info…. however I personally feel that most
of these aren’t “must haves” simply cause people do have different driving
styles and therefore different requirements for “bulletproofing” im not
trying to knock your advice I just think that people should go based on
there driving style like me im a heavy basher and I have had the rpm caster
and steerling blocks and broke em all cause of how hard I bash got the rpm
a-arms all the way around and aluminum steering and caster blocks and never
broke anything since and to me I think the lcg upgrade is more of a
racer/speed type driving doesn’t work for me but like I said great vid and
good advice I enjoyed watching it :)

Aeren Lisbo says:

nice! im still stock.

Ryan R says:

Rpm is also warranted for life free replacement 

jacob portillo says:

a little late but you should try running a little longer gear, that 23t
pinion is the stock pinion for brushless motors, look like you started with
a brushed which would be the stock 19t. i run a 28/83 gear and its a
perfect combo for good speeds and good acceleration, and stays cool.

genwee says:

NICE video!

William o'brien says:

great video man. i have a slash 2wd as well. big fan of rpm, currently have
hubs by them and was toying with the idea of a arms. currently running big
bores with 50 weight. gave the car alot better ride, but always had a
problem with the rear bottoming out and could not find a good set of
stiffer springs, may i ask what springs your running on the rear (entity
maby?) other then that, made a metal front bumper witch i later gave to a
friend (bad choice). found it made it roll alot more predictably through
the corners. currently looking into new tires and am wondering how worth it
was the low center gravity chassis. do you have a comparison vid by chance
(i.e. testing chassis side by side around corners with same electrical
system)? other then that great vid and hope to see more :)

IHMA WTD says:

great video, thanks!

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