Most sensible Americans, such as myself, would love to switch to the metric
system and switch to pronouncing solder and aluminium the correct way. It’s
hard to not say “sodder” simply because nobody else here does, and its very
awkward saying “solder” in front of somebody else that doesn’t get it.
At bout 6:10 you can hear a faint lipo battery charger alert. I nearly
jumped out of my skin because had just woke up and no battery should have
been on charge in my house when i was asleep.
Thank you so much for these videos! I’ve learned more from subscribing to
your channel than I did in most of my electrical engineering courses in
college! Haha :)
Thank you for making this video! You taught me more in 30 minutes than I
learned in a whole semester in college. I never knew how bad that class was
until now.
I bought my first soldering iron ever (I am getting into this as an old
man, but never too old to learn). I understood what you said, and showed,
but as you said at the end, I need to practice, practice and then practice
some more. Where can I get stuff I can practice on that will not break
the bank. I can guarantee that none of the staff at any store I have
access to will know the first thing about any of this. I could buy online
from amazon.ca, but I have no idea even what search words to use, or what
products would be suitable to let me master this stuff. I bought all the
parts for a Hubsan H107C, as well as a quad kit and a hex frame kit, but I
do not want to practice on them. Can you point me to some products (like a
good quality solder) on amazon.ca, as some inexpensive wire and pcb
products, similar enough to the MultiWii FC, or the ESCs one would use in a
quadcopter, that the practice I do will be directly applicable to
assembling a quad or hexacopter from a kit, or, as in the case of my Hubsan
parts, from the replacement parts that can be used to make a quad? Is it
possible to make a power distribution board if a kit you’ve bought does not
have one? If so, from what, and how do you ensure that it doesn’t add more
weight than the wires would add? And, can you explain how you could, on a
micro, add a connector that would let you plug in a couple 1S or 2S
batteries in parallel?
I have one other question, totally unrelated to this video, but I ask
because I have seen enough of your videos to believe you’re an expert on
making quads de novo. Have you tried making an airframe yourself from
carbon fibre? If so, what readily available adhesive is strong enough to
ensure your carbon fibre airframe is almost indestructible? I think I have
figured out a way to make an airframe for a micro or mini out of hollow
carbon fibre tubes and plates, but using a strong adhesive so as to avoid
the extra weight of fittings. I am hoping that I can make a durable
airframe that uses a little applied geometry to allow me to use a tiny
fraction of the amount of carbon fibre that is used in all the airframes I
have seen promoted. Alas, I can’t know this until I buy some carbon fibre
tubes and plates and a good quality adhesive and actually make something de
novo. For the best adhesive, do I need a special tool? If so, what would
be recommended? If you have, or know of, videos that explains all this,
please share the URLs for them.
Yup, found that out the hard way while trying to solder a XT60 connector
with my little 25W iron. The iron got stuck inside connector. I even left
the iron inside the connector in the hopes it would heat back up. The
plastic melted. Got a 40W Iron, it forms a great pool of liquid solder
inside the connector perfectly.
I am just getting started in the RC hobby and I don’t really know many
people in the hobby locally. Thanks for explaining why my battery
connectors keep breaking off and why the old iron just doesn’t seam to
have enough horsepower as it where I ordered the Hakko FX888D-23BY
[couldn’t find the analog model], and after your explanations my solder
[yes, I see the L] joints are much stronger and I am not brushing it on.
Thanks, next I am planning on playing with the Naze32 after your
recommendation.
I became an expert at making bad sodding solder joints when I was about 12.
Then I joined a slot car racing club, and got better. We used to make our
own race chassis from brass and stainless steel rod and sheet. But to this
day I still retain the skill to make bad joints, thank goodness!
Hi Bruce.
I have a question for you regarding flux.
Got a few Naze32 boards arriving this week, and want to make a good job of
the soldering. I know you are a fan of lead solder, but what about flux?
I was thinking of getting a no-clean flux pen rather than paste.
What are your thoughts?
You do such a good job with explaining it for us newbies. I didn’t know
squat about wiring, electricity, much at all about electronics. I am
slowly working through your videos and gathering a great deal of
knowledge. Thank you very much. Please keep the information coming. You
are so helpful.
First, you and many of your followers here used the word “Americans” one
too many times, so I have some food for your thoughts: You are not smarter
than Americans! Your are all blokes (lol), fairdinkum mateys!
Second: (Now to prove it) Temperature is a measure of heat! There are two
types of heat, sensible heat and latent heat. (google those smart Aussies)
Heat travels 3 ways:conduction, convection, and radiation, heat travels
from hot to cold. (hence why your soldering iron cooled down (via
conduction) when in contact with a metal of a DIFFERENT temperature) Heat
can neither be created nor destroyed however, it can be moved. Heat can be
referred to as energy. Heat of thermal mass, is just that, HEAT OF THERMAL
MASS. (google that too if needed) Or you can think of it as a little
soldering iron compared to a big one (ehhe)… All white Aussies are
criminal outcasts from England by lineage! (pfft hahaahahahahaha) No wonder
you guys are smart asses!
This is a great video! I always thought it was ideal to solder a joint as
quickly as possible. Now I know you have more time, just need to make sure
you’re not soldering too hot for lead solder and there is flux flowing.
Quick question: I was soldering two wires together yesterday and kept
getting the little jaggy bits throughout the process, even though the flux
was burning slow
off my iron and I was even adding additional flux. Is there something I’m
still doing wrong? I’m using the Hakko 888D and 60/40 rosin core solder.
Thanks!
Bruce, I love your teachings. I am new to your channel but have watched
many videos. I do not how to contact you privately or how to ask a
question other than just stick it here. Do you have or could you do
something on spot-welding battery tabs in lieu of soldering them. I would
like to make a spot welder for this purpose, however, I do not want to
blowup a battery or melt the thing because of too much power. I have
thought of using a car battery and also a power supply out of a computer.
Any direction on your part would be greatly appreciated, SIR. I am in
America and I think that the vindictiveness of your model aviation
governing body to take your wings away really stinks. If it happened here
I would sue them, report it to the press in any way to get publicity that
this monopoly of power must end. I think the secretary should step down;
you have done nothing wrong. This same thing could happen to anyone as
shown by your friend being singled out also. Thank you for supporting the
hobby. I wish I could help you. Sincerely, David E. Turner Sr.
Thanks Bruce, I think I’ll try saying Sol-der-ing sometimes ;). BTW I’m one
of those Americans who uses metric as much as possible. I can’t wait for
the rest to catch on.
I was hoping to learn about tip preservation tips, since I would ruin my
tips over time. Even with cleaning the tip with the wet sponge with every
use. I did learn to tin the tip for storage.
However I now own one of those nice Soldering stations, so my old problems
are probably null.
Question, if you pre tin two wires that you are joining you can’t twist
them together. Do you solder them side by side, or end to end, or does it
matter? Like for hooking up a motor to an esc.
Thank you, as always, for your “real” tutorials.
Simple but, so “real world” descriptive and easy to understand.
Want to start a collaboration in the US?
Bruce, good video..!! However you need to remove the gold from any gold
plated connector as part of your tinning process to eliminate “Gold
Embrittilement”…
My day job is a NASA Certified Soldering Inspector….Take Care..!!
Hi my name’s Bruce and I haven’t had fish for 5 days! Lol thanks for videos
feel like I know remote control and the mechanics and science behind it a
lot better because I’m one of the dumb Americans you refer to lol that’s ok
tho I like the videos
Sorry but we don’t say saLmon either or ConneCticut or ArkanSAS. Cheers
Most sensible Americans, such as myself, would love to switch to the metric
system and switch to pronouncing solder and aluminium the correct way. It’s
hard to not say “sodder” simply because nobody else here does, and its very
awkward saying “solder” in front of somebody else that doesn’t get it.
At bout 6:10 you can hear a faint lipo battery charger alert. I nearly
jumped out of my skin because had just woke up and no battery should have
been on charge in my house when i was asleep.
Great video. I’m gonna email my friends a long ledder about what I learning
about soddering.
wow mate, great to refresh on the very basics, top video!..
SoDering fantastic!
Thank you so much for these videos! I’ve learned more from subscribing to
your channel than I did in most of my electrical engineering courses in
college! Haha :)
Thank you for making this video! You taught me more in 30 minutes than I
learned in a whole semester in college. I never knew how bad that class was
until now.
Nicely done.
I bought my first soldering iron ever (I am getting into this as an old
man, but never too old to learn). I understood what you said, and showed,
but as you said at the end, I need to practice, practice and then practice
some more. Where can I get stuff I can practice on that will not break
the bank. I can guarantee that none of the staff at any store I have
access to will know the first thing about any of this. I could buy online
from amazon.ca, but I have no idea even what search words to use, or what
products would be suitable to let me master this stuff. I bought all the
parts for a Hubsan H107C, as well as a quad kit and a hex frame kit, but I
do not want to practice on them. Can you point me to some products (like a
good quality solder) on amazon.ca, as some inexpensive wire and pcb
products, similar enough to the MultiWii FC, or the ESCs one would use in a
quadcopter, that the practice I do will be directly applicable to
assembling a quad or hexacopter from a kit, or, as in the case of my Hubsan
parts, from the replacement parts that can be used to make a quad? Is it
possible to make a power distribution board if a kit you’ve bought does not
have one? If so, from what, and how do you ensure that it doesn’t add more
weight than the wires would add? And, can you explain how you could, on a
micro, add a connector that would let you plug in a couple 1S or 2S
batteries in parallel?
I have one other question, totally unrelated to this video, but I ask
because I have seen enough of your videos to believe you’re an expert on
making quads de novo. Have you tried making an airframe yourself from
carbon fibre? If so, what readily available adhesive is strong enough to
ensure your carbon fibre airframe is almost indestructible? I think I have
figured out a way to make an airframe for a micro or mini out of hollow
carbon fibre tubes and plates, but using a strong adhesive so as to avoid
the extra weight of fittings. I am hoping that I can make a durable
airframe that uses a little applied geometry to allow me to use a tiny
fraction of the amount of carbon fibre that is used in all the airframes I
have seen promoted. Alas, I can’t know this until I buy some carbon fibre
tubes and plates and a good quality adhesive and actually make something de
novo. For the best adhesive, do I need a special tool? If so, what would
be recommended? If you have, or know of, videos that explains all this,
please share the URLs for them.
Yup, found that out the hard way while trying to solder a XT60 connector
with my little 25W iron. The iron got stuck inside connector. I even left
the iron inside the connector in the hopes it would heat back up. The
plastic melted. Got a 40W Iron, it forms a great pool of liquid solder
inside the connector perfectly.
Do you also say Sa”L”mon? In the USA We dont call other men mate less we
gay.
Loved this video. New to soLdering and found this informative and funny
too. Answered all my questions. Thanks 😉
UK
I’ve got to say – what you give back to the community is fantastic! Thank
you for all of your hard work, its inspiring.
The word your looking for is thermal capacity. And your wrong about
soldering temperatures. Up to 350c is acceptable.
I really appreciate all the effort and expertise you share.
Such a lovely, humble, knowledgeable bloke giving away all these gifts for
free is a real treasure, and I thank you again :)
very well done from across the pond
Sudden realisation of ‘OH SHIT’ as I realise i’ve done about 30 solder
joints wrong after watching this…
I just received a HAK
Thanks for a very clear simple (and humorous) explanation. I now have a
shopping list!!
Well the french do not say the last three letters of any word
Now I know why always hated to soddder, my work never stayed togeather.
Thanks for the great lessons.
Very informative thanks for vids
I am just getting started in the RC hobby and I don’t really know many
people in the hobby locally. Thanks for explaining why my battery
connectors keep breaking off and why the old iron just doesn’t seam to
have enough horsepower as it where I ordered the Hakko FX888D-23BY
[couldn’t find the analog model], and after your explanations my solder
[yes, I see the L] joints are much stronger and I am not brushing it on.
Thanks, next I am planning on playing with the Naze32 after your
recommendation.
Sir, thank you !
Vancouver,BC
Canada
Use 63/37 solder, melts at less temp and only has 1 deg of plastic range
compared to 14 deg of 60/40 solder.
73
Jimmy, ARRL TS, WX9DX
I became an expert at making bad sodding solder joints when I was about 12.
Then I joined a slot car racing club, and got better. We used to make our
own race chassis from brass and stainless steel rod and sheet. But to this
day I still retain the skill to make bad joints, thank goodness!
Hi Bruce.
I have a question for you regarding flux.
Got a few Naze32 boards arriving this week, and want to make a good job of
the soldering. I know you are a fan of lead solder, but what about flux?
I was thinking of getting a no-clean flux pen rather than paste.
What are your thoughts?
You do such a good job with explaining it for us newbies. I didn’t know
squat about wiring, electricity, much at all about electronics. I am
slowly working through your videos and gathering a great deal of
knowledge. Thank you very much. Please keep the information coming. You
are so helpful.
First, you and many of your followers here used the word “Americans” one
too many times, so I have some food for your thoughts: You are not smarter
than Americans! Your are all blokes (lol), fairdinkum mateys!
Second: (Now to prove it) Temperature is a measure of heat! There are two
types of heat, sensible heat and latent heat. (google those smart Aussies)
Heat travels 3 ways:conduction, convection, and radiation, heat travels
from hot to cold. (hence why your soldering iron cooled down (via
conduction) when in contact with a metal of a DIFFERENT temperature) Heat
can neither be created nor destroyed however, it can be moved. Heat can be
referred to as energy. Heat of thermal mass, is just that, HEAT OF THERMAL
MASS. (google that too if needed) Or you can think of it as a little
soldering iron compared to a big one (ehhe)… All white Aussies are
criminal outcasts from England by lineage! (pfft hahaahahahahaha) No wonder
you guys are smart asses!
Finally a man that pronounces the L in “soldering”.
Thank you for posting this. Very informative; good delivery!
Very very very good video! Getting components and necessary theoretical
skills to build my first propper RC. Thanks a lot!
In other words it doesn’t have enough “Mass”. the small iron, I mean….
Is that what your trying to say, lol.
Are you Canadian
Anybody else been using way too high a temp?!
Sollllllllllllderig
Excellent tutorial. It all make sense now. Thank you.
This is a great video! I always thought it was ideal to solder a joint as
quickly as possible. Now I know you have more time, just need to make sure
you’re not soldering too hot for lead solder and there is flux flowing.
Quick question: I was soldering two wires together yesterday and kept
getting the little jaggy bits throughout the process, even though the flux
was burning slow
off my iron and I was even adding additional flux. Is there something I’m
still doing wrong? I’m using the Hakko 888D and 60/40 rosin core solder.
Thanks!
Great video Bruce as always!
Great soldering tips. I’ve been soldering big stuff for years, but always
had trouble with little wires. You made it clear what’s happening. Thanks
!
Thank you!
Very informative thank you. Are you planning to do a short tutorial on
soldering electronic components, IC’s etc?
Great video . I learnt a lot. Thanks mate.
Bruce, I love your teachings. I am new to your channel but have watched
many videos. I do not how to contact you privately or how to ask a
question other than just stick it here. Do you have or could you do
something on spot-welding battery tabs in lieu of soldering them. I would
like to make a spot welder for this purpose, however, I do not want to
blowup a battery or melt the thing because of too much power. I have
thought of using a car battery and also a power supply out of a computer.
Any direction on your part would be greatly appreciated, SIR. I am in
America and I think that the vindictiveness of your model aviation
governing body to take your wings away really stinks. If it happened here
I would sue them, report it to the press in any way to get publicity that
this monopoly of power must end. I think the secretary should step down;
you have done nothing wrong. This same thing could happen to anyone as
shown by your friend being singled out also. Thank you for supporting the
hobby. I wish I could help you. Sincerely, David E. Turner Sr.
were can i get a hako soldering iron like yours in new zealand thanks bruce
Thanks Bruce, I think I’ll try saying Sol-der-ing sometimes ;). BTW I’m one
of those Americans who uses metric as much as possible. I can’t wait for
the rest to catch on.
I was hoping to learn about tip preservation tips, since I would ruin my
tips over time. Even with cleaning the tip with the wet sponge with every
use. I did learn to tin the tip for storage.
However I now own one of those nice Soldering stations, so my old problems
are probably null.
Question, if you pre tin two wires that you are joining you can’t twist
them together. Do you solder them side by side, or end to end, or does it
matter? Like for hooking up a motor to an esc.
Thank you, as always, for your “real” tutorials.
Simple but, so “real world” descriptive and easy to understand.
Want to start a collaboration in the US?
Bruce, good video..!! However you need to remove the gold from any gold
plated connector as part of your tinning process to eliminate “Gold
Embrittilement”…
My day job is a NASA Certified Soldering Inspector….Take Care..!!
Hi my name’s Bruce and I haven’t had fish for 5 days! Lol thanks for videos
feel like I know remote control and the mechanics and science behind it a
lot better because I’m one of the dumb Americans you refer to lol that’s ok
tho I like the videos